This tutorial is based on a suggestion by Paul Schroder, one of our lifetime members, on how best to shoot and post-process winter landscapes or other shots containing snow. The major topics covered include: optimising your initial exposures; enhancing the colour of images shot of dull, flat days; how to tone black and white versions of your images; how to produce high-key winter portraits; and how to retain and enhance the fine scale detail in snow scenes.
comment byMaciek Lesniak at 07:04 AM on 25 February, 2010
Why you should (sometimes) shoot in manual mode? So You tell me that there are other modes on my camera? Joke:) I have to admit that 99,9% of the time I am using manual mode, and spot metering is the only option. It is the best duo in my opinion to get the exposure right. I sometimes use aperture priority and that's all. Thanks for another great tutorial :)
Maciek: yes, using manual mode and spot metering - in conjunction with keeping a close eye on your histogram - is probably the most accurate option. And thanks for the kind words about the tutorial, they're much appreciated.
comment by pchristoph at 10:28 AM on 25 February, 2010
great tutorial David! I enjoyed it a lot!
comment by Justin Photis at 11:20 AM on 26 February, 2010
Some lovely clear, easy to follow, steps, as always David. Very detailed commentary on all the photo's and techniques you've used and how they were achieved and why they were done. Brilliant.
pchristoph and Justin: thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
comment by Dan Baggs at 09:39 PM on 28 February, 2010
another nice tutorial david, well timed after my month long trip to Norway. and i'm so glad i learned about 'exposing to the right' before i went...
i have a question about the Image 1 psd file: how did you remove the banding in the sky above the power lines whilst keeping the clouds looking natural?
Hi Dan, I'm glad you enjoyed it. As for your question: I'm a bit puzzled. What banding are you referring to?
comment by Dan Baggs at 09:42 PM on 3 March, 2010
it may just be an artifact of the shrinking process, but there is banding on the "background" and "mod" layers (when "curves 1" is active), but there's none in "mod2"
This tutorial is based on a suggestion by Paul Schroder, one of our lifetime members, on how best to shoot and post-process winter landscapes or other shots containing snow. The major topics covered include: optimising your initial exposures; enhancing the colour of images shot of dull, flat days; how to tone black and white versions of your images; how to produce high-key winter portraits; and how to retain and enhance the fine scale detail in snow scenes.
READ MORE ABOUT THIS ISSUE HERE
Why you should (sometimes) shoot in manual mode? So You tell me that there are other modes on my camera? Joke:) I have to admit that 99,9% of the time I am using manual mode, and spot metering is the only option. It is the best duo in my opinion to get the exposure right. I sometimes use aperture priority and that's all. Thanks for another great tutorial :)
Maciek: yes, using manual mode and spot metering - in conjunction with keeping a close eye on your histogram - is probably the most accurate option. And thanks for the kind words about the tutorial, they're much appreciated.
great tutorial David! I enjoyed it a lot!
Some lovely clear, easy to follow, steps, as always David. Very detailed commentary on all the photo's and techniques you've used and how they were achieved and why they were done. Brilliant.
pchristoph and Justin: thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
another nice tutorial david, well timed after my month long trip to Norway. and i'm so glad i learned about 'exposing to the right' before i went...
i have a question about the Image 1 psd file: how did you remove the banding in the sky above the power lines whilst keeping the clouds looking natural?
Cheers
Hi Dan, I'm glad you enjoyed it. As for your question: I'm a bit puzzled. What banding are you referring to?
it may just be an artifact of the shrinking process, but there is banding on the "background" and "mod" layers (when "curves 1" is active), but there's none in "mod2"
Wonderful tutorial as always. I noticed the banding too. I figured you just did a very careful clone job.
Dan/Jonas: the banding is a consequence of the resizing. I'll take a look at the original and see if I can resize it so that it's less noticeable.